Day
Three
We
woke up to a light drizzle. It had been going on most the night.
It's always hard to motivate on damp, cold mornings, and
this was no
exception. As would be the standard for us during our stay in BC we put
on the water around ten in the morning.
Charlie
Center.
Shortly
below camp the Homathko was
joined by Mosely Creek which more
than doubled our flow. The scenery stayed astounding as we floated
through the open valley.
After enjoying the wide open scenery the river constricted
to the start
of a new canyon, and rapids formed. With twice the water it was quickly
turning into a big water river and a lot of fun. We boat scouted
through a few lead in rapids before arriving at "The Bet" our first
scout.
The Bet is the largest runnable rapid of the Homathko, and
was looking
pretty mean. I'm not sure what the whole group was thinking, but Katie
and I decided to portage it and started walking back up to our boats.
At the top of the rapid we gasp in horror as a boat is out in the
middle of the river and quickly gaining speed to disappear in The Bet.
Charlie and I sprinted up the rocks to get our kayaks and
start
portaging, but by the time we got done with the fifteen minute portage,
the kayak was long gone. No images of The Bet because we were now in
strictly business mode.
We regrouped below the bet and talked over what to do. The
kayak had
gone into The Bet and none had seen it emerge downstream. Jonas and I
both had Spot satellite messengers. Our float plane landed in two days.
We were not willing to let one person be out in the wilderness alone.
We could send two people up to the Homathko/Mosely Creek valley, where
we were sure it was wide enough for extraction. But they would either
have to carry their boat over a mile, cross country, up to the valley,
or abandon their kayak. Then they could use the Spot or wait until we
called for a private helicopter pick up. None of us wanted to abandon
our kayak, or carry it through such rugged terrain.
Downstream progress seemed to be the best option. We'd
continue down
the river until the next wide spot where a person could come back down
to river level. Same for the hiker, head downstream until the next wide
spot.
Back on the water a small amount of boogie led to the next
gorge, which
we bombed down until suddenly we were above a menacing horizon. Out
beta had mentioned two rapids in gorges, one with a large hole which
could be gone around on the left, and another that had a boof down the
center that "went better than it looked". Which were we at? There were
no real eddy hopping options, except for one that committed the bold to
that side of the rapid. Rush made the bold move and caught the eddy,
and gave it a good long look. The center certainly was not the place to
go, so he probed down the left, a nice slide to boof move over the edge
of a large hole. We all followed, and in the flatwater below the gorge
walls dropped back and we got out on the left to await our teammate.
Rush
Sturges filming Charlie Center,
who, to our amusement, stepped
into some quicksand.
We waited on the beach and gave the occasional shout for
our hiker. It
was cold so we started a campfire. After an hour we had the whole team
again. An hour for a quarter mile. Hiking out was certainly not an
option. Options were rehashed again, but we settled on the SPOT unit as
the best bet to make sure we got out to the float plane on time.
We collectively took a deep breath and hit the button, a
first for any
of us. The river rushes by. Wind in the trees. Seemingly silent after
all our talk. Not knowing how long we would have to wait, guessing
possibly overnight since the remoteness of our location, we built up
the fire and hunkered down.
We'd eyed the beaches and cleared the largest one, hoping
a small
helicopter might be able to land. After two hours of joking and story
telling, we heard the unmistakable drone of a motor. The sound of rotor
wash soon followed. Sudden a massive helicopter flew over the ridge,
slowed down and then passed by. We waited on the beach, surprised by
the timely response and size of the bird.
A few minutes later the helicopter passed over again,
sussing out the
situation. Rotor wash came into ear shot again, and the helicopter came
back into view and started hovering. It was two-hundred feet above us,
but had so much rotor wash that mist was coming up off the river. It
hovered for a minute, and then we saw a rescue worker descending.
A
whole new meaning to dropping in.
Once on the ground we quickly informed the rescue worker
that there was
no medical emergency and things relaxed. He said they were in the area
doing training, got the call and were happy to respond. They'd be able
to extract the team member but not their paddle or the boat, which is
understandable.
Two
heading out.
The helicopter flew off and silence returned. It was
getting late in
the afternoon and we knew the meat of the Homathko was downstream. We
stashed the left over paddle high on the bank and embarked into the
next canyon.
We
didn't
know exactly where we were, but we did remember something
about a boily rapid and the top of the next gorge was certainly that.
Charlie hopped out, gave it a quick thumbs up and we all dropped in.
Not recommended unless you like running class V blind, because you will
below here.
Jonas
Grunwald and Rush Sturges on the
first part of "The Second Act of
Tragedy".
Totally walled in. Except there is a creek coming in on
river left.
Rush makes the ferry over to a tiny eddy and scouts. He scouts for
longer than makes us comfortable as we swirl around in an eddy in the
middle of the river. Rush says it's too hard to explain and for us to
follow him. He gets back in his kayak and makes an extraordinarily
tough ferry out. He can't make it to the eddy we are in, but makes it
far enough to go down the center and we follow.
From LVM: "One of the big issues with the Second Act comes
in the form
of a creek separating the box canyon in two. The scout all the way to
the Death Hole typically takes 30 minutes each way and requires a swim
across said creek."
We power through a key boof over a big hole, charge right
and punch a
another hole before getting to the run out. Whew, that must have been
the boof down the center we'd heard about. Two known lines were behind
us and we were out of beta. Out of beta with another large horizon
line. True vertical walls on both sides. The left doesn't look good so
Charlie charges down the right and I follow, punching a hole and then
driving to the center, barely punching another hole and then it's a
wave train, with one final hole. Can that be it? The river is suddenly
mellow and the gorge opens up.
Another gorge rises up, but it's just scenic class II.
This must be the
"inner peace" gorge. We float in grandeur and are soon out into the
open again, running a few larger boulder gardens before the river
braids out and we are certain of being in the paddle out.
We'd heard of a four hour paddle out. There was still a
lot of light.
We put our heads down and moved downstream. Three or four miles past
the Inner Peace Gorge we found the rogue kayak in an eddy. It was
complete but we had no way to get it out, so we ransacked it for the
most valuable items and stashed it on the left.
We paddled on and had the first of several bear sightings.
First a
black bear that split when it saw is. Then a grizzly that didn't care
when it saw us. Then another grizzly. On an island. This was
disconcerting because we were supposed to sleep on an island to avoid
bears. Maybe we can just make it all the way down. Dusk sets in and we
are still a long ways out. We went under a bridge an hour ago but know
nothing about it.
It's almost dark and we're not going to make Homathko
Camp. We find an
island and hope for the best. There are bear tracks all through our
camp. There is plenty of driftwood. Thus we make a large fire and plan
to keep it going all night as a deterrent. It drizzles all night and we
wake to a foggy morning.
As
we pack up the fog rolls away and
the scenery is simply breathtaking.
A unique optical phenomenon: the mountain is casting a shadow on the
cloud behind it.
We
put on the water earlier than
normal, and although it's flat, once
again the scenery is powerful. Jonas Grunwald.
Yet another indifferent grizzly.
The river really flattens out and it's become a real slog. The scenery
is good, but after another three hours of paddling we are ready to see
the end. Coming into a long straightaway we catch the glimpse of
buildings and raise our hands in celebration.
Halfway across the straight, a small plane buzzes
in and
gives us a fly
over before landing off in the trees. Could this be our estranged team
mate? At the dock we are greeted by the friendly owners of the Homathko
Camp, our team mate and two pilots. They invite us up for coffee, which
we are pleased to partake in after the cold morning.
Over the radio they had heard that weather was bad inland and that our
flight would be an hour later than planned. We enjoyed a tour of the
camp and exchanged stories.
Eventually
we heard the unmistakable
drone of a Beaver and our flight
plane landed and docked with efficiency.
We chatted for a while with the friendly pilot and then loaded the
plane. Once loaded it was a quick transition to being in the air.
Charlie and I waited behind, talking with Chuck
about the
boats he was
building. He is an amazing guy with incredible talent for fabricating
and problem solving. Our float plane returned and it was time for
Charlie and I to enjoy the river in reverse from a considerable
elevation adjustment.
Tiedmann
from the air, strange to see
it so high after contemplating it
at river level.
Our pilot was kind enough to circle back over key points and give us a
view. The portage gorge. We put in the large pool at the bottom of the
image.
Half
an hour of views later and we
were at Tatlayoko. We bid adieu to
our pilot and commenced loading the truck.
Best shuttle ride in the world.
Four
days and an epic adventure behind
us, we look like a motley crew:
Darin McQuoid, Rush Sturges, Katie Scott, Jonas Grunwald and Charlie
Center.
On our way back out we had to beg gas off some locals. You
can't fill
up too often in these parts of BC and we dropped the ball. On the whole
we loved the Homathko and all dream of returning, even if there is a
lot of flatwater.
Here is a little
video thanks to Daniel Brasuell.
Charlie Center also put together a
nice
piece with out of the boat footage too.
We
had flows of: 200cms (7,000cfs) 9/13 to 9/16 but the river jumped to
500cms (17,500cfs) on four days later and then to 2,750cms (97,000cfs)
three days after that. The Online
Gauge.
So pay close attention to the weather forecast and pray it doesn't rain!
The best beta can be found on Steven Arn's LiquidLore site.