Kyrgyzstan
Day Six & Seven; the Naryn (Нарын) It's nice when a photograph shows how the weather feels, hopefully this feels as cold and windy as it is.
Goodbye
balmy weather. It's about 40f with strong winds, and hard to motivate.
This classic section of the Naryn river is about 90km long and is
typically done as a two or three day trip. We decide to take three days
and lifestyle it, due to the long shuttle and a bridge collapsing at
take out. Gima picked up news of this bridge on the way in, and in the
original logistics we'd use it to head to a canyon lower down on the
Naryn after completing this section. Without the bridge those logistics
have changed, so for now we'll paddle the section in front of us and
tackle the logistical hurdle later.
Just amazing people live here in the summer. Note the "road" in the bottom and of course the shelter up top.
Gmitry connects with the locals while we pack up.
They look ruff but were quite friendly, yet business oriented.
Everything
about this, traditional culture, modern equipment, it's rather
pragmatic yet so great how they hold on to the roots of Kyrgyzstan
culture.
Ok then, we're all packed up. You may have noticed our trailer always
has wood. There are not a lot of trees in this landscape, so we haul it
around for future cooking projects.
Michal Kuthan paddles into the Naryn at 9,800' elevation.
There
is a lot of current and a lot of wind. It's cold, full drysuit and
pogies. We paddle hard and make decent time for 10km and then stop as
the whitewater begins, and make a fire and tea to warm up.
Tea
time, a quick look at the river. From here, at our flow, it's a 10-15km
section that is similar to California's Salmon River or Scott, just
zero pools, one good IV rapid for miles and miles. Super fun.
We pull off on the right after about ~45km of paddling, 8,700' elevation. Google Maps Link.
We're lucky, the weather holds out while we make camp and dinner. We
all stroll around a bit to soak in the place, there is something about
being nowhere.
Looking downsteram from the campsite at "Russian Flatwater".
Rain comes in as we go to bed, and then it cools off. We're very lucky to awaken to sunny skies.
Well below freezing overnight, it's great to have the sun to melt off the ice and dry all our gear.
The next ~20km are pretty easy, just very fast moving water with some II-III rapids. We stop to make lunch and tea.
Incredible to cover 35km in an easy day paddling. We're now about 80km into the run we stop to make camp. Our camp
location is dictated by a side creek coming in. The Naryn has
more silt than the Colorado through the Grand Canyon, you really can't
filter it, and must camp at side creeks.
This side creek is next to a herding camp, and we pay them to camp on their land. It's worth it and a nice setting.
The local herder only speaks Kyrgyz, so we can't communicate too much,
yet it is enough, and he invites us to ride his horse. Michal is the
only one bold (young) enough to give it a go and pulls it off with
aplomb.
Egor, David and our host as the sun sets. You see these hats at the
airport and thing that's a nice historical nod, yet surely no one wears
them? As we learn, they do, Kyrgyzstan has culture.
We have a relaxing afternoon, enjoying some warm weather before another
frosty night and looking forward to the gorge that awaits downstream. Google Maps for our campsite at 7,800'.